Cheap and portable USB ASIO device for IIDX Infinitas / BMS Beatoraja: Moondrop Dawn Pro

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Recently heard that Moondrop Dawn Pro USB DAC supports ASIO so I bought one for 320 MOP / 40 USD to try with IIDX and beatoraja. Even if it doesn't work at the end I'd still have a DAC for my phone to use.

Moondrop Dawn Pro uses CT7601 for USB interfacing and dual CS43131 DAC for L/R channels separately. CT7601 is the star of he show here as it support ASIO with drivers from Moondrop (found here) (or alternatively, Comtrue's CT7601 driver, I have not tested this personally).

Install the Moondrop driver, get the ASIO caps program here to configure your audio device.

In ASIO caps, click Control Panel,

set Buffer Size to 8ms (for IIDX Infinitas) or 2ms (for beatoraja),
set Bit Depth to 24-bits,

then press OK.

Then press "Caps" to check settings and see if its set properly. It should show "Int24LSB" (the required format for IIDX Infinitas) and 352 samples (for 8ms) or 88 samples (for 2ms).

Also change "Speakers (MOONDROP Dawn Pro)" in Windows sound setting to 24bit 44100Hz.

                           

IIDX Infinitas:

You need to spoof your ASIO device as a Xonar AE for Infinitas to use.

Run Registry Editor,

go to "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\ASIO",
create a new key with the name XONAR SOUND CARD(64) (provided that you never had a Xonar AE in your PC before).
Then make 2 Strings value inside the XONAR SOUND CARD(64) key:

"
Strings value name: CLSID
Strings value data: [copy your Moondrop Dawn Pro's CLSID Strings value data to here]

Strings value name: Description
Strings value data: XONAR SOUND CARD(64)
"

Close Registry Editor.

Also remember to set VSync for Infinitas in NVIDIA control panel or else the game audio would desync.

Install infzoom (or infzoom-for-special-k for 120FPS Infinitas) then launch the game with the ASIO option.

If the game does not boot (オーディオデバイス作成失敗) check if your registry is set properly.

Otherwise you should be good to go.

Since I didn't pay for Infinitas, I only tested it a bit in trial mode, feels fine.

                           

Beatoraja:

In the Audio tab change Audio Output to use PortAudio,
Select the audio device with the name "Speakers (MOONDROP Dawn Pro)" (Not "MOONDROP USB AUDIO ASIO4", beatoraja wouldn't output audio on this).
set Audio Buffer Size to 88 samples (2ms in ASIO caps) or 352 samples (for 8ms),
set Audio Sample Rate to 44100Hz.

Insane BMS gogogo.

                           

SDVX Konasute:

Can't test, game couldn't update or launch, thanks Konami.

                           

Latency:
I have no way of testing lol.

                           

Reference:
Running beatmania IIDX infinitas (2020) with ASIO audio mode
inf_launch_ext - ASIO出力について（書きかけ）

PlayStation Vita (PCH-1000) USB C Mod

Picked one up in Surugaya Shinjuku for 9800 yen (minus 8.5% foreigner tax return) / 9000 yen / 450MOP, pretty good price although I have no idea why Vita are still going for so high in the average second hand market in other regions.

This unit is marked with "Cross button not working well" but I didn't find any problem with it, and the rest of the console is in very good condition.

I originally wanted to clone Oxyll Mod's VitaC myself (It was out of stock) but upon searching on Xianyu (aka chinese eBay) I found someone already selling kits (and arguably better designed).

Link to the Xianyu store page: https://m.tb.cn/h.gQG0Mt6?tk=mjHq3dKvck2

Install tutorial on Youtube probably by the same guy: https://youtu.be/Jh0lIKJG9MA

Taking apart the console following the iFixit guide here: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/PlayStation+Vita+Motherboard+Replacement/8115

Area of interest:

Next 2 things I did:

1) Apply flux and low melt solder onto the port's 4 anchors on the underside of the motherboard and remove the solder with a hand pump.

2) Apply flux and low melt solder onto the port's data pins and anchor on the top side of the motherboard.

Then get a hot air rework station, set to 400°C at medium flow rate, wait for the solder to melt then pry the port off the tweezers (of course being extremely careful not to rip any pads).

Apply flux and clean up the pads and holes with copper wick.

The USB C kit in question:

Have it aligned to the SMD components on the motherboard according to the markers on the kit's board and from the video instruction.

** The video tutorial suggests putting UV cure solder masks onto the adjacent pads to avoid shorting out. I did buy a tube of green solder masks for this specific occasion but as it turns out my tube of liquid is basically transparent when you only put a *very* little amount its hardly visible if the mask has covered the pads I need to use, so I opted to not use any solder masks. YMMY.

Anchor down the USB C board with a soldering iron, inject flux between the Vita motherboard and the USB C board's top right corner, then use a hot air rework station to flow the solder on the USB C's board onto the Vita's proprietary port's pads, while pushing the USB C board down with a tweezer.

Remember to check for shorts with a multimeter on 5V and USB D+ D- with the test points, according to the provided instructions.

Slot the provided plastic sleeve onto the port:

Cut off the 2 plastic post on the case according to instruction. This is why I like this kit over other solutions since there's pretty much minimal plastic cutting involved.

Reassemble everything:

Check if charging and data transfer works.

And now I have a USB C PS Vita 1000, yay!

beatmania IIDX Lightning Model Turntable resistance adjustment (MRF Device) repair log

Update:

Boss bought a new one, replacing the one I fixed.

Demo: https://x.com/mnm_isola/status/1855575552473579789

As you can see the brand new one is might tighter at the max resistance setting.

The old one is sold to somewhere in Taiwan, probably installed in a cab.